Treatment of Flea Bites on Humans

Flea bites as most of us are aware, are caused by a category of tiny, wingless, bug like insects which are parasitic by their very origin and feeds on the blood of warm blooded animals. Though their occurrence is mostly diagnosed in the body of their hosts, yet they can also be found in the damp and unclean corners of the house, since these insects are known to survive for days without foods continuing to hibernate in their cocoons mostly in the pupae stage.

Modes of Flea Infestations

The spread of fleas is a very unique mechanism since irrespective of their tiny body size and absence of wings; these beasts are capable of jumping long distances and great heights and thus very conveniently land themselves in the body of new targets from the body of their existing hosts. Further, flea infestations are most commonly caused as a result of irregular cleanliness habits with respect to pet animals such as not offering them a shower after their regular stroll or playtime with the neighbor’s pets, however in very irregular circumstances can also be caused from unkempt lawns, dirty carpets or even on moving into new places.

Thus although animals are the most common targets of flea bites; human beings by reasons of their close association with them are not left far behind from being exposed to flea bites and suffering from the consequences thereof.

How to identify Flea Bites on Humans?

Flea bites like most other insect bites are characterized by red bumps or swell over the infected body parts mostly the lower legs, arms and the mid section of the body, however unlike other bites they always appear in clusters and are hot to touch and extremely painful. Besides scratching them can cause serious outspread of the lumps and even allergic reactions accompanied by nausea, dizziness, mild fever etc.

Treatment of Flea Bites on Humans

The treatment of flea bites on humans is manifold.

The most common treatment includes treating the infected area with ice or cold water to soothe the burning sensation and to avoid scratching the area at all costs. The rationale being that flea bites are normally surrounded by their bacterial excretion, thus scratching would only cause a bacterial interference in an already nasty allergic reaction scenario. The ice water treatment not only mitigates the itch, but also relaxes the tissues around, thus causing slow melting down of the bumps by washing away the flea saliva that might be the main reason behind the infection.
Another usual error free method can include treating the infected area with anti-bacterial, antihistamines and anti-septic lotions which can be easily obtained from the local chemist. These lotions will soothe the burning and itchy sensation and would consequently flat out the boils.
A more relaxing method could be treating oneself to an oatmeal bath which would help soothening the bites. The same effect can also be achieved by gently scrubbing the affected area with vinegar, calamine lotion or tea-tree oil. However be very careful as to not irritate the infected area further.

Although the above-mentioned are tested and risk free methods of dealing with flea bites on humans, any bites that is characterized with an allergic outbreak or more detailed symptoms involving swelling of random body parts or vomiting tendencies must be immediately diagnosed and treated.

Sand Flea Bites – All you need to know

Sand flea bites

Sand flea bites has recently become a very common case in all over United States. These little fleas, which are usually found on the beach, are creating a lot of ruckus these days. To know how to prevent a bite from a Sand flea and also to treat it first hand, we need to first know “What is a Sand Flea?”

Sand Fleas are also known as with variety of names depending on the place they are found such as beach hoppers, hop-along, beach fly or sand hopper. Although they are named differently but all these terrestrial crustaceans belong to the same family of Talitridae which belongs to a larger group of Amphipods.

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Sand fleas are extremely small in size and could easily be mistaken as insects but that should not fool you as these extremely small crustaceans that are actually very difficult to see with the naked eye. The following image will give u an idea how the small demons look like and if you can have a close look they almost resemble a shrimp but lot smaller in size. So for you to see Sand flea, you will have to stare at an area of the sand for a period of time. After some time only you will start seeing these sand fleas jumping around.

Sand fleas are as little as they come but should not be taken lightly because their sting will cause severe pain on the bitten part.

Sand flea bites are not just limited to people on beach, but these fleas are common in normal parks too and these bites can be observed on children and dogs too. These Bites create a very pinching sensation and also swelling and redness of that area.

These fleas are called hoppers too as they hop in the sand which enables them to access larger area of leg and not just the foot. These pesky little insects are ridiculously dangerous.

What Do Sand Flea Bites look like on humans?

These blood sucking hoppers although being quite small in size, can cause severe skin problems. Sand fleas with their jump can only reach up to 20-40 cm, so the chance of getting bitten on the upper body is less unless you’re lying down in the sand, then you are in a lot of trouble. Their usual biting area is the feet, ankles and legs as they are closest to the ground. Sand fleas come out from the ground generally at evening, night or dawn and that is the time when they are most active. So any flea bites going to happen, it’ll most likely to happen during that time. So, if you’re on the beach around that time, you should be totally on guard. These Sand fleas create a very high pitch noise which is audible to humans too, so if you hear any such thing it is a clear indication that Sand fleas are in vicinity and you should move from there.

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Following are some pictures of the Sand flea bites on humans. This will give you some idea about what the symptoms look like.

Two types of Sand Flea Bites

It has come to light that there are two different types of sand flea bites on humans. Type one looks like a typical mosquito bite and that happens when the fleas hop on to your legs, suck your blood and then they move on to another host. During this time, they inject their saliva which prevents blood clotting and this is done so that they are not disturbed while they are feeding. This saliva is the reason for the irritating itchiness on the skin and this could cause an allergic reaction too.

The second one is even worse and breeding female sand fleas are the reason behind it. These female fleas burrow themselves deep into the skin and stay there until the hatching of their eggs. If you get a Sand flea bite and you see a swollen area with black spot in the middle, you should immediately go to the doctor to get rid of it as it could be breeding sand fleas.

The symptoms of both these flea bites are similar and the most common occurrence is of itching, swelling, sharp pain and unpleasantness. People who are allergic to sand fleas can have maximum effect from its bite as severe reactions can take place. When the female breeding fleas burry themselves into the skin of their host, infection in that particular area is possible, you may also experience some fever which could develop into a condition called “Tungiasis”, which is a type of skin disease that can cause further secondary infections if not treated properly.

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How to Prevent Sand Flea Bite?

“Prevention is better than cure”

If you want to avoid getting bitten by the sand fleas then following are some of the tips which will help you to do so.

Avoiding the beach when it’s raining. Sand fleas are reported to be more aggressive and active when the air is cool and moist. Beaches should also be avoided in the evening for the same reason. The best time for Beach visits is when sun is up and it’s warm and dry outside.
If you plan to go to the beach when its cool then you should carry your insect repellent as it is of help but only to a certain extent.
Covering yourself while sitting or lying on the beach can help to avoid getting bitten on your back, legs and feet.
Rubbing your legs with insect repellent cream can also help as they provide a thin protective layer over the skin and can prevent Sand fleas breeding into your skin.

I hope this article reaches out to people who are in danger of getting bitten and can be of some helpful. For more information, you can read about How to cure flea bites on humans, children, and dogs.

Natural Flea Control – Non-Toxic Alternatives for Cats

If your cat has ever had fleas then you will know it is very uncomfortable for them. Your cat may even itch themselves all day long, which is not nice to watch. Some animals are even allergic to the bites of fleas, so it is vital to get them treated as quickly as possible before it turns into an infection.

There are many options on the pet care market these days of ways to manage your pets fleas, or even completely eliminate them. Natural flea treatments are always at the top of my list, because they do not contain toxic ingredients that may contribute to causing chronic disease in your beloved cat companion.

Tackling fleas head on requires a two-step plan:

Step 1: Tackling Fleas Naturally on your Cat

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Improve Diet & Strengthen their Immune System – At the beginning of any flea treatment routine, just like when looking into other problems your pet may be having, it is always good to look at first supporting the immune system. Having a strong immune system increases your cats chances of being able to fight off any nasties such as fleas and parasites wishing to live off him or her. The best way to do this is to ensure your cats immune system is strong by ensuring their diet is rich in natural foods he or she would eat in the wild. For your cat this should be at least 40% organic protein and the remainder being organic vegetables. Remember fleas are an external parasite, and if your cat can host external parasites there’s a strong chance they have some internal ones too so addressing diet will have a positive effect inside and out.

Foods that can promote a strong immune system for cats are:

Spirulina – A blue green algae from the ocean, that contains a very long list of vital vitamins, minerals and omega’s that may be lacking from your cats diet

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Pet Probiotics – The first part of the immune system actually starts in the gut, from where the food has left the stomach and hits the bowels. So it is vital the bowels are lined with plenty of good bacteria to take care of any bad bacteria that can cause disease or weaken your cats immune system.

Milk Thistle & Dandelion – Two great herbs that promote correct cleansing to take place in the body. The better your cat can cleanse itself of toxins on a daily basis the better its body (and mind) can function for many years to come.

Healthy Weight & Exercise – If your cat is overweight, then your cats body will not be able to cope with the amount of work it has to do on a daily basis, let alone work on cleansing the body of toxins and parasites such as fleas. So, by ensuring your cat gets out enough, or walked and played with daily will go a long way to helping your pet reach its optimal weight. Plus, although exercising itself does not build immune system cells it can help circulate them to where they need to go!

Buy a Flea Comb – Sounds simple enough but not enough people tackle the eggs which are buried right at the root of the animals fur. It is the eggs that are the biggest problem not the adult fleas you see so much. The flea comb can be used dry or at the same time as washing your cat – I would suggest both for best results.

Natural Flea Shampoo – This can help soothe your pets skin and help remove some of the adult fleas.It won’t help much to get rid of the eggs as they seem to cling really well to hair. But you will remove a lot of adults will which stop your pet from being bitten so much.

Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) – This is a fine flour-like powder, the microscopic remains of fossilized diatoms, a type of algae. It works by dehydrating the flea so no need to use any type of chemical poison on your cat. It should be noted that you MUST buy the FOOD GRADE version of this product as this is the safe and non-toxic version to animals. For best results rub this powder into the pet’s coat after they are bathed and dry, and DE will kill fleas and other pests. Be careful not to breathe in too much of the DE yourself, as breathing in large amounts could cause problems. Available in most countries, simply check your search engine and your area for details of where to find it closest to you. I also like this product because it not only works very quickly, but it is pretty cheap.

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Step 2: Natural Flea Control for your Home

When it comes to fleas, I have found personally that the quicker you act, and the more techniques you use the quicker you will beat the flea problem – for your cats sake and your sanity. Some of these techniques may sound simple and too good to be true, but believe me I have had results with all the above techniques when I was living out in South Africa where fleas are rampant!

Wash Bedding Regularly on HOT – This step alone can make a massive difference to reducing the amount of fleas you have in your house, and therefore how many live off your cat. In the pets bedding will be the flea egg. By washing the bedding several times a week on a really hot wash (i.e. 60 degrees centigrade at least), you will kill off the eggs, and any adult fleas living there.

Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth – As well as applying this to your pet, it should be applied to all clean cat bedding, and around the floors and edges of your home daily to prevent flea eggs hatching. It should also be applied outside in your garden where the fleas will be breeding in the dirt daily also.

Vacuum Regularly – Again, get rid of those eggs before they hatch is the key to this flea ridding process. Remember to empty and rinse the vacuum bag (or change it if it is not a reusable bag) every time you use it else the fleas will simply breed in your vacuum and get out again! We need to contain these bad boys ASAP. Remove any rugs or carpets that you can in the process of getting rid of fleas. These areas are a fantastic breeding ground for fleas.

Feel free to leave a comment and to let us know what worked for you from our selection of natural flea control techniques. Best of luck to you in beating the fleas!

The natural approach to flea control

Fleas! Everyone hates these blood-sucking parasites. Our war against fleas is epic and ongoing, but each of us must fight our own individual battles. At Only Natural Pet Store, we want to give you the best weapons: only what works, and only what is safe for you, your pets, and the environment.

“There are three fronts in every battle against fleas: the pet(s), the home, and the outdoor environment. But before we sound the battle cry, we need to know our enemy. “

1. Why the Flea is Such a Fierce Enemy

Fleas have a number of strategic advantages in this war:

1. Masters of Maneuvers – Fleas are tiny, hard-shelled insects with incredible muscle power in their hind legs; they can jump 4-5 feet horizontally (or nearly a foot straight up). They’re fast. They’re adaptable. And they’re hard to kill.
2. Stormtrooper Mentality – Fleas come with three basic marching orders, or biological imperatives: to survive, to eat, and to reproduce. They are entirely devoted to these orders. And they are very, very good at all of them. They are especially good at reproducing; an adult female lays about 20 eggs at a time. In her lifetime (depending on conditions, up to 1-1/2 years), she may produce hundreds, even thousands of eggs.
3. Effective Recruitment – The female flea typically lays her tiny white eggs in dark, damp places. If she lays any eggs on your pet, they will fall off…but they could travel all around the house or yard first. Within their hiding places, the eggs will hatch in about a week (although they can delay hatching until conditions are ideal) into larvae. The larvae then pupate by spinning cocoons, in which they can finish their development in a week, but they can survive in their cocoons for up to 6 months.
4. Subterfuge Specialists – For every single adult flea you see, there are about 10 cocoons, 35 larvae and 50 eggs hiding in carpets, pet beds, cracks, corners, and furniture.
5. Weapons of Mass Annoyance – Flea bites are itchy because, when fleas bite to feed, they inject blood thinning compounds to prevent clotting during dinner. Not only do these anti-clotting proteins cause itching, but they can also cause the immune system to mount an allergic reaction. Flea-allergic dermatitis is one of the most common skin complaints in pets. For an allergic animal, just one flea bite can cause a massive and prolonged reaction. Fleas can also transmit diseases such as bubonic plague, typhus, Lyme disease, and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, as well as tapeworms.
6. Efficient Defenses – Most chemicals, including bombs and sprays, kill only adult fleas or adults and larvae. That leaves thousands of tough little eggs and cocoons just waiting for the proper conditions, when they’ll renew their assault once more. Fleas are also well defended against famine conditions—one blood meal can keep an adult flea alive up to two months.

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“Fleas come with three basic marching orders, or biological imperatives: to survive, to eat, and to reproduce.”

2. Natural Defensive Strategies for Pets

Inner Defenses

Like other parasites, fleas target less healthy hosts, as well as puppies and kittens with undeveloped immune systems. Therefore, the first defense for our pets is to optimize their health and immunity.

If you’ve read any of the other articles on our site, you’ve heard this before: Diet is the foundation of health. After years of experience and research, we have come to believe that the best diet for most dogs and cats is a biologically appropriate raw food (“BARF”) diet. However, not everyone is comfortable with or can manage to feed a raw diet; but it is important to feed the very best diet you can. This means top quality commercial pet foods that contain NO by-products, unnamed meat meals or bone meal, chemical preservatives, or other artificial additives. Meat should be the primary protein. Dogs can be fed a mix of canned and dry foods, but cats need moisture in their diets, and should be fed mostly or only canned foods, or reconstituted dehydrated or freeze-dried foods. Avoid carbohydrates, especially corn and wheat, as much as possible for cats.

Garlic and B-vitamins seem to make blood less attractive to fleas, so many guardians supplement with garlic and brewers yeast during flea season. Sensitive animals can develop an allergy to brewer’s yeast, so monitor your pet to guard against worsening itchiness (pruritis).

“The first defense for our pets is to optimize their health and immunity. Experience and research shows that the best diet for most dogs and cats is a biologically appropriate raw food (“BARF”) diet.”

Outer Defenses

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The ultimate weapon in the battle with fleas is the Flea Comb. It is the best method to discover whether fleas are present. Comb through your pet’s fur and gather a bit of hair and dirt. Then put this between two damp white paper towels and press them together – if the “dirt” creates rusty reddish spots on the paper towel, then a flea has been there (the dirt is actually flea feces). If you keep combing (especially around the tummy and tail), you will likely trap some of them in the comb. Drown them in SOAPY water – fleas have been known to jump out of plain water. Daily flea combing may sound tedious, but it is very helpful while you are working on your companion’s health and taking environmental action.

Many topical sprays and shampoos claim to repel or kill fleas. However, many of them contain chemicals and pesticides with serious toxic potential. Cats are particularly susceptible to such products, because they are constantly grooming themselves and ingesting whatever is on their fur. Even sprays or chemicals from the dog can transfer to furniture or rugs, and from there to the cat. So, be extremely cautious with chemicals.

“Many topical sprays and shampoos claim to repel or kill fleas. However, many of them contain chemicals and pesticides with serious toxic potential.”

Safe flea-repellents for dogs

We recommend essential oil-based, non-chemical products to help keep fleas away from your dog. Spray and shampoo which contain essential oils not only help repel fleas, they can also help soothe and heal irritated skin. Herbal Defense Oil Blend is another good repellent for use on dogs. You can put a drop on the collar, and dilute it into a spray to mist your dog. Combining a little essential oil repellent spray with your flea combing is a great way to both spread the essential oils throughout the coat and give you extra help with catching the fleas. Pay particular attention to the base of the tail, and under the legs and belly on dogs. When using any strong-smelling product, keep in mind that your dog or cat has a much stronger sense of smell than you do, so don’t overdo it.

Geraniol is an extremely effective flea repellant derived from geranium flowers. Geraniums have long been planted around homes and in window boxes to keep pests like fleas and mosquitoes away. Going forward with this idea, scientists were able to extract geraniol, an oil that is 400% more effective than citronella at repelling fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. Only Natural Pet Herbal Defense Squeeze-On is an effective, safe and long lasting option for your dog.

Safe flea repellent for cats

Neem products are also good for cats; comb in especially around the neck, chest, and belly. Or, spray a small amount of Only Natural Pet Herbal Defense Spray onto a cloth and wipe it on lightly. Follow all directions carefully for best results. Never use full-strength essential oils directly on cats (spray products are already diluted to safe levels). Geraniol is one of the few oils that is safe for use with cats. Geraniol’s repelling power is proven to be effective for fleas, ticks and mosquitoes and unlike other herbal spot-ons, it feartures a sweet, enjoyable smell. Only Natural Pet Herbal Defense Squeeze-On for Cats is a great, long lasting flea repellant option for your cat.

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For killing fleas once they are on your pet,

we recommend natural flea powders. Only Natural Pet All-in-One Flea Remedy is a powder made from calcium carbonate, geraniol and peppermint oil that is safe for use on dogs and cats as well as around the home. It kills fleas in all life stages by dehydrating them, a method that is not only non-toxic to pets, humans and the environment, also a method that fleas cannot develop an immunity to, as they do with all other pesticides over time. It is a very fine powder and a little goes a long way. Suggested use is approximately 1 teaspoon per 10 lbs. of body weight. Work it in well with your fingers, or use a flea comb to distribute it. It needs to be on the skin for it to affect the fleas.

Why not use flea collars?

Most flea collars are treated with chemical pesticides that you do NOT want your pet wearing around their neck all the time! There are some natural flea collars, like Only Natural Pet EasyDefense Flea & Tick Tag, available that will help in environments where fleas are not severe, or perhaps on an indoor cat, but you generally don’t want to rely on them as your sole line of defense if you live an area with a large flea population.

Flea Tags – Definitely worth a try!

There are some amazing new products that use tags that hang from your pet’s collar and that repel fleas based on energy fields. It sounds very “out there”, but they work really well for many animals and are far and away the easiest way to keep fleas off your pet. It is definitely worth trying a flea tag, because they work for most pets, and some for as long as two years!

What about “spot-on” flea products?

Chemical spot-on flea products contain powerful and potentially dangerous pesticides, and should be considered a last resort for animals with severe flea allergies. An excellent review of these products was featured in the Whole Dog Journal, “Are ‘Spot-On’ Flea Killers Safe?” in the February 2002 issue; despite its age, the article remains relevant. “All pesticides pose some degree of health risk to humans and animals. Despite advertising claims to the contrary, both over-the-counter and veterinarian-prescribed flea-killing topical treatments are pesticides that enter our companions’ internal organs (livers, kidneys), move into their intestinal tracts, and are eventually eliminated in their feces and urine.”

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“The chemicals used in chemical spot-on flea products will readily transfer to human skin when the animal is handled. This can be particularly dangerous to children.”

Chemical spot-ons can induce severe adverse reactions, including excessive salivation, skin rashes, tremors, hyperactivity, stiffened limbs, seizures, and death. Consider that to be deemed safe for use on our companions, these products only need be tested for 3-, 13- or 52-week intervals. Higher doses are used to compensate for the shorter testing periods. NO STUDIES have been done on the LONG TERM effects of applying these pesticides to animals repeatedly over long periods. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) received so many adverse event reports (more than 44,000 in 2008 alone) that they have opened an investigation into the safety of all registered spot-on products. Illness and death in dogs and cats were reported for every one of them. The EPA is currently reviewing labels and other data and will be issuing restrictions and requirements shortly.

3. Defending the Home Environment

Remember that most of the flea population lives and develops in your house and yard, not on your pet. Treating the environment is essential if you want to win this war. However, flea “bombs” and other products do not kill all life stages of the flea, and are generally made with chemical pesticides, which are NOT something you want to spread over every nook and cranny of your house.

“Remember that most of the flea population lives and develops in your house and yard, not on your pet.”

Carpets, Flooring, Bedding, and Furniture

Vacuuming and washing hard-surfaced floors often – daily during the height of flea season – is the least toxic way to control fleas. This will remove most of the adults, and some eggs and larvae. Keep in mind the larvae don’t like light, so vacuum under furniture and around baseboards, anywhere near your pet’s favorite places to hang out. Remember to either vacuum some Only Natural Pet All-in-One Flea Remedy or an herbal flea powder into the vacuum bag to kill any fleas in the bag, or immediately remove the bag and discard it in a sealed plastic bag after use. Otherwise, they will just jump out of the bag and back into your home.

Vacuuming alone can’t control severe infestations, and not everyone has the time to clean all the floors daily. That’s when we recommend using one or more of the natural “powders” available for ridding your home of fleas. The least toxic products are diatomaceous earth and boric acid products, which both work by dessicating (drying out) the fleas, larvae, pupae, and eggs, which kills them.

Only Natural Pet All-in-One Flea Remedy can be used on carpeting, on pet bedding, on furniture and on hard floors (and on your pets – see above). It is a very fine powder, so it gets into cracks and crevices on hardwood, tile, and linoleum floors easily. You can work it in with a broom or carpet rake so it creates less dust when walked on. It acts more quickly than boric acid products, and a difference in the flea population can be noticeable in 24–48 hours. Calcium carbonate, however, does not last as long as the boric acid products. Monthly applications are recommended in areas with heavy flea populations, especially during the height of flea season.

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Boric acid products, such as Fleabusters and Fleago, work in a similar fashion. When applied correctly, they offer protection for up to a year or more, as they remain deep in the carpet and furniture fibers. Fleabusters may also be used on hard floors, as the powder is fine enough to reach into cracks and crevices well. All visible powder must be worked into the carpet, floor or furniture well with a broom or carpet rake, and any remaining visible powder should be vacuumed up. Boric acid kills flea larvae, but is not as effective at killing the adults, so visible results may take 2-6 weeks, as the adult population dies off. During the initial weeks after application, it is helpful to vacuum frequently to remove adult fleas. Boric acid products are more toxic than diatomaceous earth products as well, so you should not use them directly on dogs or cats, or in areas where small children play.

With all flea powder products, follow package directions carefully. Natural flea control powders are drying agents, and their dust can irritate nasal passages and lungs if inhaled directly. Avoid overzealous shaking of the container while spreading the powder onto the floor so you don’t create clouds of dust. If you have any questions about the application process with any of our products, please call or email and we will be happy to help.

Bedding

Pet beds are a favorite flea hang-out. Wash your pet’s bedding in hot, soapy water at least weekly. You can even add some flea repellent essential oils to the water for extra flea-zapping power. Sprinkle a little Only Natural Pet All-in-One Flea Remedy onto DRY bedding and work it in to help kill the little pests while your companion sleeps

4. Securing the Perimeter (Your Yard)

Last, but certainly not least, treat the yard, the major source of fleas. Larvae avoid light – so rake up leaves and thatch, and keep the grass cut. A majority of fleas and larvae will be within 50 feet of your companion’s favorite resting spots, so focus on those areas, especially shady areas under trees, bushes, and decks. Only Natural Pet All-in-One Flea Remedy or diatomaceous earth can safely be applied to grass.

Beneficial nematodes (worms) are another way to control fleas in the yard, especially during wet weather. Beneficial nematodes are a flea parasite. They are tiny little critters that prey on both adult fleas and larvae. They can be applied with a hose sprayer or, on a smaller yard, with a watering can. Some garden centers and nurseries carry them (or can order them for you), as well as some of the “natural” pet stores. An Internet search will provide many sources as well.

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The Pre-emptive Strike

If you live in a high-flea area, don’t wait until you see fleas on your companion to treat your environment! If you live in an area with a predictable flea season, begin the treatment a month before they appear. If you live where flea season is every season, start now and treat your home regularly. Using natural methods takes more effort than dropping a blob of pesticide on your cat’s or dog’s back, but in the long run your pets, your family, and your environment will be healthier!

The flea was easily get rid of fleas in the house

Don’t skip any of the following steps or your flea problem will be back, most likely stronger than before.

Fleas are very resilient and can hide easily in your home. If you don’t start home flea removal as soon as you realize that fleas are in your home, you will end up with a flea infestation problem!

You may have been told that fleas don’t survive in the winter, this is not true! Fleas can live through all seasons. During colder months a flea can live very happily in your home where it’s heated. So if you think your home has fleas and it’s cold outside, you’re probably right. Continue reading on for home flea removal!

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Step 1: Get Rid Of Fleas On Your Pets

You need to treat your pets for fleas first and foremost. If you don’t have pets but still have fleas, start with step 2, treating your carpets for fleas.

I have step by step instructions to get rid of fleas on your dog, puppy, cat or kitten. After you have treated your pet for fleas, follow the steps below to complete your home flea removal.

To get rid of fleas on your pets naturally: There are many ways that you can get rid of the fleas on your pets without harsh chemicals and with home remedies. If you have a kitten or puppy, I would recommend not using any chemicals directly on their skin. There is a wonderful product out there called wondercide, this product is safe for all pets and they have a complete line of products you can use on your pets of all ages and in your home. It is a bit pricey but well worth it.

Step 2: Treating Your Carpets For Fleas:

Your carpets will need to be treated with a carpet spray that specifically targets fleas. Thoroughly spray your carpets with the spray being sure not to avoid any areas. Fleas love warm, moist, dark places, so be sure to move any furniture on your carpets and spray under them.

A Natural Alternative To Chemicals For Carpets Is: table salt. If you would prefer a natural inexpensive alternative, you can use table salt. You can read about killing fleas with table salt, this is a very effective home flea removal treatment that will only take your time and about $10, depending on the amount of carpets in your home. You can find step by step instructions to use table salt on carpets at:

kill fleas naturally

Step 3: Treating Your Furniture For Fleas

All of your furniture will need to be treated with a flea furniture spray. Fleas can and will hide in the furniture stuffing, so be sure to saturate this as well. If you’re furniture could be ruined or stained from the spray, using a steam cleaner will be just as effective. The steam will kill the fleas, in all of their life stages. this is a very effective home flea removal treatment!

Step 4: Using A Flea Fogger To Kill Fleas:

You will need a flea fogger to reach the tiniest spots in your home that you can’t see. Remember flea eggs are the size of a grain of salt. There are many places that the flea egg could be hiding that you wouldn’t even think about. The fogger will reach all of those spots that are blind to the human eye.

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Step 5: Washing Everything For Home Flea Removal:

You’ll need to wash all bedding that your pet goes on. Toys that your pet plays with, will also need to be washed, if they’re made of a cotton like material. If the toy is rubber or plastic, just rinse in hot soapy water. If it’s not possible to wash your pets toy, just throw it out! If this step is skipped during your home flea removal, you will find the fleas again within a week. Your pets will continue sleeping on their beds and playing with their toys ultimately scattering the flea eggs again throughout your home!

Wash all the bedding in hot soapy water. I use flea shampoo to wash my animals things, I know it’s safe and it kills fleas. Dry everything you can on high heat, in your dryer. This is an extra effective process in killing all the flea stages. If you can’t wash something that your pet uses, like a pet bed, just throw it out and buy a new one or steam clean it.

Step 6: Vacuum, Vacuum, Vacuum!

Vacuum all of your carpets extremely thoroughly. Be sure to get all the nooks and crannies with your vacuum, remember fleas like dark places, so be sure to move furniture and vacuum under it.

When your done vacuuming throw the canister bag out or empty the bag-less vacuum canister. Put the garbage bag with the vacuum debris outside of your home. The fleas can stay alive in the vacuum bag or canister! Do this everyday until you are no longer seeing any fleas, this usually takes 4-6 weeks, before you can say you are completely flea free.

Going over your carpet a few times is a very good idea, as the larvae stage of the flea has a sticky outer coating, that makes it easy for it to stay deep in your carpet fibers.

Watch this video about the importance of vacuuming for flea removal

Step 7: Mopping All Of Your Floors To Get Rid Of Fleas

You will need to thoroughly mop all your hardwood floors and any tile flooring as well. Make sure you reach all the cracks and crevices of your floor, fleas like the littlest spots!

You can use whatever cleaner you normally would for cleaning your floors. Fleas don’t like wood and tile because they’re cooler surfaces. However, the egg stage and larvae stage can fall from you or your pet when travelling through your home.

If you have a floor steam cleaner this is very effective as well. The steam cleaner will kill the flea stages on contact because it is so hot, while the pad will pull them off the floor.

Get Rid Of Fleas In My House Completed!

You did it!!! Your home is well on it’s way to being flea free. Now to keep your home flea free be sure to keep your pet protected with a monthly flea treatment or an alternative natural flea treatment.

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You should also repeat the previous steps weekly, except the vacuuming, this should be done daily. It is highly possible to have a few fleas still survive but if you stay one step ahead of them you will keep your flea free environment for you and your family!

If you live in a warm area, where fleas can live year round outside, you should also treat the outside of your home. Fleas can live very well outside but there are preventative measures you can take. Make the outside of your home flea free, and protect your home from re infestation

You may enjoy some more information in the following articles:

– How to get rid of Fleas from your home , a methodical guide.

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